How to make Complex, Bespoke Mouldings on a Router Table
How to make Timber mouldings on a router table without buying expensive cutters. This section shows how I've made complex wood moulding for my door using basic router cutters. The techniques can be adapted to make your own custom mouldings for various applications.
Tools and Equipment used to make timber Mouldings
Using a Spindle moulder and expensive dedicated cutters is out of my price league. However I have a Router Table and 4 cutters from a 15 piece Trend router cutter set. With these I've made these, attractive complex mouldings to fit raised panels on my front door. The timber was prepared using a Thicknesser to the right dimensions, square and true.
Door Panel and Moulding Design
To simplify the making of the door I chose to fit the panels, after assembly of the door frame, with applied mouldings. This also allows me to have moulding that stands proud of the door face so it has the bespoke door look that I wanted.
The outside moulding has a lip that comes around to the face of the door. The inside moulding fits in the recess so the panel is held securely.
Working Out the Router Cutting Sequence.
This took me a fair bit of time to work out, which cutters to use and the order in which to use them. The order is critical to ensure there's enough of the stock section left to guide the moulding squarely against the cutter.
Router Cutters Used
These are all from my “relatively” cheap 15 piece 1/2” Trend router cutter set. You can see I've removed guide bearings
The Router Cutting Sequence
Groove using a 12.7 (1/2”) rounded bit
Rounding off the the top edges with a 9.5mm radius bit
Stock removal on the bench saw.
Edge moulding with an 4mm radius OGEE router bit
Final edge moulding with the 9.5mm radius bit
Rebate or rabbet with a straight bit for the joint faces
It does take some time, with all the various passes, but the results are great and CHEAP!
Video: Custom Timber Mouldings with Cheap Router Bits
Fitting the Mouldings and Raised Panels
The outside mouldings are cut with tight mitres to fit the recess. These are glued and pined in place.
The panels are seated against this using acrylic sealant. As the sealant has a low resistance to shear it allows the panel to expand and contract. At the same time the elasticity of the sealant helps to keep the joint water tight.
The Inside mouldings are fitted into the recess. Glued and securely pinned. Keeping plenty of pressure against the panel.
Finishing the Door
Beading needs applying for the glazing. I made this also using the Ogee router cutter. The external beading is glued and pinned in place. The internal beading is set aside awaiting the leaded glass panels. The glazing might be a while yet.... another set of skills for me to learn.
Hope you've found the write up of my door building, useful / interesting / laughable. What ever please leave me a comment.
How to Make a Timber Door