Cheap Draft Proofing - Door Seal
Well this is how I did it... The problem was our front door had a draught blowing under around and over. This was after trying the cheapest method of draught proofing using self adhesive foam strips. The foam only works where it touches so with a wonky door in a wonky frame and a wonky floor I was getting a small gale blowing through.
Timber can flex so compressing a seal all the way round can be impossible, it can be compressed near the latch but then it can be pushed away at the top, bottom or both. At the bottom our hall floor isn't flat and so the door is cut so it will open fully.
Conventional Draft Proofing
I could have fitted an external flap type seal that's pinned to the frame but I'm not keen on the looks, the price and the same compression problem can occur. A chunky aluminium two part threshold seal would have cured the bottom draft but again the cost and looks don't suit me along with the raised threshold trip hazard. A normal brush strip wouldn't work because of the wonky floor.
Cheap alternative Draught Proofing
My solution uses a brush seal “Weatherpile”. Why? Because I had some. Even if I had to buy it, at £1.25 +vat and P+P for a 2.2m length from it works out much cheaper than the products from the sheds. I bought mine from Reddiseals but I'm sure there are plenty of suppliers out there. Try searching here:
Fitting The Brush Seal
As long as you have a router fitting it is easy.
First the bottom edge.
A strip of timber with a groove routed down it. The bottom edge can then be shaped to suit the floor and press the bristles of the brush seal against the bottom of the door. For an even cheaper solution I could have glued, stapled or tacked a piece of carpet to the strip instead of the brush seal.
I used the same method to seal the bottom of our cellar door.
Weatherpile (Brush seal) Fitting to Sides and Top
The brush seal could be set into the frame but I choose to put a groove in the actual door. This meant I could finish the job without taking the door off.
Note: the hinge side is still sealed using the compression foam.
The groove is easy to router with just the hinge side of the top and the bottom of the latch side, finished off with a chisel. By adjusting the depth of the grooves the varying gaps can be accommodated without too much trouble. With a little compression of brush the door opens and closes easily. After a week the kids are getting used to not having to slam the door.
There is gap in the seal where the mortice latch is, so I left the bit of foam compression seal ( that worked ) in place.
Its an easy cheap job I wish I'd sorted years ago.
On a list somewhere I've got a new front door planned, until then this solution will do. I might incorporate this solution in the new door, who needs a hideous plastic door just for the draught free benefits?